Day 8: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven Distance: 9 miles (14.5 km) Terrain: Challenging climb up Devil’s Staircase, then descent into Kinlochleven
Day 9: Kinlochleven to Fort William Distance: 15 miles (24 km) Terrain: Steep initial climb, undulating forest paths, gradual descent to Fort William
Day 8: Racing the Weather Over Devil’s Staircase
We woke early at Kingshouse Hotel, knowing that rain was forecast and determined to tackle the infamous Devil’s Staircase before the worst of the weather arrived. Instead of a full sit-down breakfast, we grabbed some quick snacks from the hotel and set off into the cool morning air.
The Devil’s Staircase—despite its ominous name—is actually a well-constructed zigzag path that climbs steadily from the valley floor. At 1,804 feet (550 meters), it’s the highest point on the West Highland Way. The ascent was demanding but manageable, each switchback revealing increasingly spectacular views behind us. Kingshouse gradually shrank below, while the vast expanse of Rannoch Moor stretched to the horizon.
We’d timed it perfectly—or nearly so. Just as we crested the summit, light rain began to fall. We paused to catch our breath and take in the dramatic panorama despite the drizzle. The landscape here is raw and elemental: rocky slopes, distant peaks shrouded in mist, and the sense of being truly in the Highlands. Even with rain threatening, the beauty was undeniable.
The descent toward Kinlochleven offered different but equally impressive scenery. We dropped into the Lairigmor valley, surrounded by towering mountains. The path wound through rocky terrain and past tumbling streams swollen with Highland rain. Gradually, the landscape softened, and we could see Kinlochleven nestled at the head of Loch Leven below.
Lunch and Respite in Kinlochleven
By the time we reached Kinlochleven, we were ready for a proper break. The Highland Getaway Cafe welcomed us with its warm interior and the promise of hot food. We settled in for lunch, ordering hearty meals that hit the spot after our morning’s exertion. The cafe’s friendly atmosphere and quality food made it a favorite among walkers, and we understood why.
After lunch, we indulged in a few well-deserved drinks, celebrating our conquest of the Devil’s Staircase and savoring the comfort of being indoors as the rain continued outside. The town of Kinlochleven, once an aluminum smelting hub, has reinvented itself as a gateway for outdoor enthusiasts, and its welcoming vibe was exactly what we needed.
Afternoon at Allt-na-Leven Guesthouse
Our accommodation for the night was the Allt-na-Leven Guesthouse, and from the moment we arrived, we knew we’d made an excellent choice. The hosts were exceptional—warm, friendly, and genuinely interested in our West Highland Way journey. They welcomed us like old friends, immediately putting us at ease.
The guesthouse itself exudes Highland charm while providing modern comfort. Our room was immaculately clean, tastefully decorated, and incredibly cozy—the perfect refuge after a wet day on the trail. The hosts’ attention to detail was evident everywhere, from the quality linens to the thoughtful touches that made the space feel special.
Evening at the Tailrace Inn
Following our hosts’ advice, we made our way to the Tailrace Inn for dinner. This popular spot, named after the water channels from Kinlochleven’s industrial past, has become a favorite among locals and walkers alike. The pub’s warm, welcoming atmosphere was exactly what we craved after our challenging day.
We settled into a comfortable corner and perused the menu, which featured excellent pub fare with a Scottish twist. The meals were generous and delicious—perfect comfort food for weary hikers. We paired our dinner with perhaps one more local craft beers than necessary, but the celebratory mood was irresistible. We were, after all, just one day away from completing the West Highland Way.
The Tailrace Inn’s lively atmosphere, with its mix of locals and fellow walkers, created the perfect setting for swapping trail stories and toasting our near-completion of the journey. As the evening wore on and the drinks flowed, we felt the camaraderie that comes from shared adventure and the anticipation of tomorrow’s final push to Fort William.
Day 9: The Final Challenge Begins
The next morning, we were treated to a wonderful breakfast at Allt-na-Leven. The spread was impressive: perfectly cooked eggs, quality bacon and sausages, fresh bread, and all the trimmings. Our hosts ensured we were well-fed and ready for the longest day of our trek. The full Scottish breakfast was exactly the fuel we needed for the 15-mile push to Fort William.
Unfortunately, the weather had other plans. Day 9 dawned gusty and rainy, and the conditions would test our resolve throughout the day. The steep climb out of Kinlochleven—known locally as the “second Devil’s Staircase”—immediately challenged us. The ascent through the forest was relentless, our legs protesting after eight days of hiking. Rain lashed at us, and the wind made every step feel harder.
Battling the Elements
The rain and wind continued unabated through the morning and into early afternoon. The trail took us through dramatic Highland terrain: ascending through forests, crossing exposed hillsides, and traversing remote glens. On a clear day, this section offers stunning views of Ben Nevis and the surrounding mountains. In the rain and mist, it took on a different character—moody, atmospheric, and undeniably challenging.
Around midday, we found ourselves huddled under a large tree, seeking whatever shelter we could from the elements. We unpacked our lunches and ate quickly, trying to stay as dry as possible. There’s something almost comical about eating a sandwich in a rainstorm while sitting under a tree in the Scottish Highlands, but it’s also oddly memorable. These are the moments that become the best stories later.
The landscape on this final section is wonderfully varied. After the initial climb, the trail follows ancient drovers’ roads and passes through the Nevis Forest. Despite the weather, we caught glimpses of the beauty around us: cascading waterfalls, moss-covered rocks, ancient trees, and the rugged mountains looming through breaks in the clouds.
By mid-afternoon, the rain finally began to ease and the sun peeked out. Our spirits lifted as we knew Fort William was drawing closer. The trail descended gradually through forest paths, and we could sense civilization approaching. The sound of traffic and the sight of houses marked our return to the modern world.
The Finish Line
Then, suddenly, we were there. The official end of the West Highland Way in Fort William—96 miles from where we’d started in Milngavie nine days earlier. Despite our exhaustion, wet clothes, and aching feet, the sense of accomplishment was overwhelming. We took photos at the finish point, grinning like children despite how tired we were and how much our feet hurt. We’d done it.
Celebration and Comfort
Our first stop was the Black Isle Bar, where pizza and cold beer had never tasted so good. We raised our glasses to the trail, to Scotland, and to the incredible journey we’d just completed. The warmth of the pub, the excellent food, and the satisfaction of finishing created a perfect celebratory atmosphere.
After dinner, we made our way to Guisachan House, our final accommodation. The staff here proved to be wonderfully accommodating. When we explained that we had an early train to catch back to Manchester the next morning, they immediately offered to prepare takeaway breakfasts and hot tea for us. This thoughtfulness was the perfect end to our Highland hospitality experience.
Homeward Bound
The next morning, armed with our packed breakfasts and steaming tea, we caught our train from Fort William. As the landscape rolled past the windows, we saw the terrain we’d walked through over the past nine days from an entirely new perspective. Mountains we’d climbed, glens we’d crossed, and lochs we’d skirted by now appeared from the comfort of our seats. The train journey offered a wonderful opportunity to reflect on the magnitude of what we’d accomplished.
We changed trains in Glasgow, navigating between stations with our backpacks and suitcases, now feeling much lighter without the weight of anticipation and daily mileage ahead. The bustle of the city was a stark contrast to the remote trails we’d been walking.
Arriving in Manchester, we walked to the Cow Hollow Hotel, our final stop. As we checked in, we realized how different we felt from the eager hikers who’d set off from Milngavie over a week ago. We were weather-beaten, footsore, and thoroughly exhausted—but also immensely proud and filled with memories that would last a lifetime.
Final Reflections
The West Highland Way had delivered everything we’d hoped for and more: stunning scenery, physical challenge, cultural immersion, and a profound sense of accomplishment. From the gentle start near Glasgow to the wild expanse of Rannoch Moor, from the dramatic Devil’s Staircase to the rain-lashed final push to Fort William, every step had been worth it.
The trail had tested us, particularly on those final rainy miles, but it had also rewarded us with unforgettable vistas, warm Highland hospitality—from the Allt-na-Leven hosts to the Tailrace Inn’s convivial atmosphere—and the knowledge that we’d walked one of Scotland’s most iconic long-distance routes from start to finish.
As we settled into our Manchester hotel that evening, already looking at our dirt-caked boots with something approaching nostalgia, we knew one thing for certain: the West Highland Way had claimed a piece of our hearts, and Scotland’s mountains would be calling us back before long.
Checkout my entire West Highland Way adventure here.
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