Distance: 11 miles (18 km)
Terrain: Exposed moorland, mostly flat with some gentle undulations; can be challenging in poor weather
A Memorable Morning at Inveroran Inn
Day 7 began with a fabulous breakfast at the Inveroran Hotel. The dining room buzzed with the energy of hikers preparing for the day ahead, and the spread did not disappoint. Hearty porridge, perfectly cooked eggs, crispy bacon, and freshly baked bread provided the fuel we’d need for one of the West Highland Way’s most dramatic sections. The hot tea and friendly service set a positive tone for what promised to be an unforgettable day.
Before setting off, we popped into the small shop next door to the hotel. This humble but well-stocked store is a lifeline for walkers, offering snacks, drinks, and any last-minute essentials. We grabbed some chocolate bars and trail mix, knowing that the stretch ahead would offer little in the way of amenities.
Into the Wilderness: Rannoch Moor
Leaving Inveroran behind, we stepped into one of Scotland’s most iconic landscapes: Rannoch Moor. This vast expanse of blanket bog and heather-clad wilderness stretches for miles in every direction, creating a sense of remoteness that’s both exhilarating and humbling. The terrain is mostly flat, following an old military road that cuts across the moor, but don’t let that fool you—the exposure to the elements can make this section challenging on windy or rainy days.
The scenery was breathtaking in its stark beauty. Endless vistas of peat bog dotted with pools of dark water reflected the ever-changing sky above. In the distance, the mountains formed a dramatic backdrop—Buachaille Etive Mòr gradually came into view ahead, its distinctive pyramid shape becoming more prominent with each mile. The feeling of walking through such wild, untamed country was profound, and we found ourselves pausing frequently just to take it all in. This wild landscape is exactly what dreams of the West Highland Way are made of.
The path itself was well-maintained, a wide track that made for easy walking despite the miles. Wooden boardwalks carried us over the boggiest sections, a welcome feature that kept our boots relatively dry. The only sounds were the wind across the moor, the occasional call of a curlew, and the rhythmic crunch of our footsteps.
Lunch by Rannoch Moor Bridge
About halfway through our journey, we reached the old stone Rannoch Moor Bridge, a picturesque spot where the trail crosses a rushing river. The bridge, weathered by decades of Highland weather, provided the perfect backdrop for our lunch break. We settled on the grassy bank by the water’s edge, unpacking our provisions and enjoying the peaceful setting.
The river babbled past, crystal clear and cold from the surrounding hills. As we ate our sandwiches and refueled with snacks, we watched the water tumble over smooth stones, the sound creating a soothing contrast to the windswept silence of the moor. Other hikers passed by with friendly waves and brief chats, all of us sharing in the camaraderie that develops along the trail.
The Final Approach to Kingshouse
Refreshed and re-energized, we continued across the moor. The landscape remained hauntingly beautiful—a patchwork of browns, greens, and purples depending on the season, broken only by scattered lochs and the distant outline of mountains. As we drew closer to Kingshouse, Buachaille Etive Mòr dominated the skyline, its imposing presence a reminder of the dramatic terrain that awaited us in the days ahead.
The final miles passed with a mix of anticipation and satisfaction. We’d crossed one of Scotland’s most famous wild spaces, and the sense of accomplishment was palpable.
Arrival at Kingshouse Hotel
The Kingshouse Hotel appeared like an oasis at the edge of the moor, its whitewashed walls a welcome sight after hours in the wilderness. This historic inn, one of Scotland’s oldest licensed hotels, has been providing refuge to travelers for over 400 years. Its location at the foot of the mountains makes it a legendary stop on the West Highland Way.
We pushed open the door to the hotel, where the warmth and convivial atmosphere immediately enveloped us. The bar area, with its rustic charm and well-worn furniture, felt like stepping back in time. We ordered drinks and collapsed into comfortable chairs, savoring the moment of rest and the satisfaction of another day completed. Fellow hikers filled the room, swapping stories and comparing notes on the trail.
After checking into our room, we were pleased to find it clean, comfortable, and well-appointed. While the Kingshouse maintains its historic character, the rooms have been thoughtfully updated to provide modern comfort. A hot shower was pure bliss after a day on the moor, washing away the miles and reviving our spirits.
The hotel offers a range of amenities that make it ideal for walkers: a drying room for wet gear, packed lunches available for the next day, and helpful staff who understand the needs of long-distance hikers. There’s also free Wi-Fi, allowing us to catch up with loved ones and share photos of our adventure.
Dinner at Kingshouse
Freshened up and relaxed, we made our way to the hotel restaurant for dinner. The menu featured hearty Scottish fare designed to satisfy hungry hikers. I opted for a tender rump steak, rich and warming, while others in our group enjoyed other fresh Scottish fare. Each dish was generously portioned and expertly prepared.
We paired our meal with local craft beers, toasting to another successful day on the trail. The restaurant’s atmosphere was lively but not overwhelming, with large windows offering views of the surrounding mountains catching the evening light.
As we ate, we noticed a fellow hiker we had crossed paths with for the last several days. He was eating alone so we invited him to join us. He happily accepted and we were able to swap stories about our day. One of the highlights of a long distance trail like the West Highland Way is the people you meet along the way.
As we lingered over dessert—sticky toffee pudding that was absolutely divine—we reflected on the day’s journey. Crossing Rannoch Moor had been everything we’d hoped for: wild, beautiful, and unforgettable. The Kingshouse Hotel provided the perfect end to the day, combining historic charm with modern comfort.
Looking Ahead
Tomorrow would bring new challenges as we tackled the climb over the Devil’s Staircase, but at the time, we were content to rest in the comfort of Kingshouse. The moor had tested us with its exposure and distance, but it had also gifted us with some of the most spectacular scenery on the entire West Highland Way.
As we retired to our rooms, the mountains loomed dark against the twilight sky, promising more adventures to come. Day 7 had been a day of wilderness and wide-open spaces, a true Highland experience that we’d carry with us long after the journey’s end.
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