Sunny Morning Departure
Our fourth day on the West Highland Way kicked off with a robust Scottish breakfast at the Rowardennan Hotel. Plates piled high with local sausages, eggs, and tattie scones provided the perfect fuel for the challenging trek ahead. We also collected our pre-ordered packed lunches, a foresight we’d be thankful for later.
The trail from Rowardennan to Beinglas Farm is widely considered one of the most challenging and rewarding sections of the West Highland Way. Stepping out into the cool, crisp air, we found Loch Lomond shinning in the morning sun. Full of anticipation, we shouldered our packs and hit the trail.
Rowardennan to Inversnaid: Nature’s Gauntlet
As we left Rowardennan, the well-maintained path quickly gave way to a rugged, natural trail that demanded our full attention. The route hugs the eastern shore of Loch Lomond, alternating between dense, ancient oak woodlands and exposed, rocky shorelines.
We found ourselves scrambling over moss-covered boulders, some as large as small cars, their surfaces slick from the loch’s spray. Gnarly tree roots crisscrossed the path, forming natural staircases that tested our balance and stamina. In some areas, the trail narrowed dramatically, with the loch lapping at one side and steep, fern-covered slopes rising on the other. This section’s difficulty is matched only by its beauty – around every bend, breathtaking views of Loch Lomond revealed themselves, the water’s color shifting from deep blue to silver as clouds passed overhead.
Lochside Lunch Break
After a morning of invigorating hiking, the Inversnaid Hotel emerged like a mirage amid the rugged terrain, its white-washed walls a stark contrast to the surrounding wilderness. This historic establishment, dating back to 1820, offers weary hikers a welcome respite. The hotel’s crown jewel is undoubtedly its outdoor terrace, perched right on the shores of Loch Lomond. We paused here, allowing our tired feet a much-needed rest and to enjoy our lunch.
The terrace provided unobstructed, panoramic views of the loch. Fellow hikers dotted the tables, their animated conversations mixing with the gentle lapping of water against the shore.
Inversnaid to Beinglas Farm
Post-lunch, the trail became even more challenging. We navigated rocky terrain, clambering over boulders and roots. This section, while demanding, offered some of the most spectacular views of the day.
The isolation of this stretch was palpable; for long periods, the only sounds were our footsteps, the calls of unseen birds, and the gentle lapping of the loch against the shore. While challenging, this section of the West Highland Way offers a true wilderness experience.
As the afternoon waned, the sight of Beinglas Farm was a welcome one for our tired feet. Beinglas Farm offers a range of accommodation options, from hotel rooms to camping pitches to cozy pods.
After checking in and dropping our bags in our room, we made our way to the on-site restaurant. The menu, filled with hearty, hiker-friendly options, made decisions difficult. Finally settling on our choices, we also ordered cold beers – the perfect accompaniment to reflect on our day’s journey. As we ate and drank, we found ourselves reflecting on our day and checking out what the route would hold for us the next day.
Tomorrow’s Preview:
Day 5 promises new vistas as we bid farewell to Loch Lomond and venture into the highlands proper. Join us for the next leg of our West Highland Way adventure!
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